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DSX 105L - coach built 356 replica

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  • DSX 105L - coach built 356 replica

    Due to having to be stored outside this one will need some love this year. When it starts it will be given some modifications and upgrades similar to imps and well neded after the years.

    At least the engine and transaxle are in the right place driving the right wheels

    Some of the original parts such as the speedo and instruments will need rebuilt, something i enkoy, these are all original 356 parts and the new digital ones simply look too shiny.

    Battery relocation and wiring, the body os fibreglass so grounding and so on sort or relevant to clans adn ginettas, unfortunately as this is coach built rather than the common kits, its all bonded together fro strength sitting on what was a VW convertible beetle plan which has been shortedned and floor dropped.

    Like imps these all have quirks and one is fuel condensation on mid mounted carbs, to go dual is expensive, really expensive so likely I will go injection on this one. Result is a poor drive until warm as it affects idle.

    The engine is new, unlike imps you can buy everything you need new.

    But same issue as pattern parts do and some are real crap. Example is the Solex carbs, the copies are a complete waste of time, better buying a proper genuine refurbished genuine one.

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    / John

  • #2
    Love it John, what’s it like to drive?


    • #3
      A demon, gets round the road well but not at moment due to te neglect of leaving it outside.

      Interior is damaged, so will need new leather all round and carpet

      Hood can be saved.

      Paint work has suffered so it will need prepped and a respray, no dents to fix though and the scratches and chips on bonnet that have bugged me for so long can be fixed.

      A couple of panels have a slight ripple as black shows up every damn imperfection. might fix those, but being so shallow might be easier to just add a couple of coats of paint and have it cut back professionally as these fellas know their stuff and can work miracles as long as the paint thickness is enough.

      Only mention on last MOT was the handrake operation barely passed. So ir ckon the rear brake assemblies have seized a little or the cables have, so that needs done.

      Other than that it starts on the button and goes like the wind.

      Its actually helens car but she won't drive it as no power steering, no power assited brakes, no eletric windows and no door locks.... so I have to be cabbie.

      / John


      • #4
        Modern replica parts , complete waste of time, my workmate just invested nearly £40K in a new mill , when checking it out today we found that putting the lock on the quill moves it a terrible amount , just to confirm we tried the same thing on our 20 odd year old model and it didn't even move 0.001" yet new one can move 0.004" with just hand pressure on the side
        Someones going to get a good SHOUTING at tomorrow.
        Modern rubbish!



        • #5
          Ah well. Poor car crapped out on me, went to start last Monday for the builders to start on the house and ended up pusghing it onto the street

          Cause discovered and rectified.

          Yet ANOTHER Pertonix ignition module crapped out. Thats the third, car never even made it a decent run on first two.

          Never again. Electronics in old cars, bad bad bad bad

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          Bosch Dizzy, coil and lead s now back in and went first crank
          / John


          • #6
            We should know better. Think about one of these PCB's sitting there, sweating away with lots of condensation and no conformal coating (no idea if it has).

            Just think about the keyless handles on Mercedes W211/W219, it's 2 resistors and 2 x tact switches yet our good friends in Germany designed it cr@p.
            We could have done a much better job but would likely have pushed the cost from $1 to $2

            Better with basic. ;)
            Patrick McGrorty

            100% MK 1 just as rootes intended it, no mods, no problem


            • #7
              Amen and for those that think electronic ignition is the second coming, here endith the sermon
              / John


              • #8
                Woken from its slumber and inside cleaned as best we can.

                New battery terminals and wiring up front, I am still resisting the tenptation to rip it all out and do it again relocating the battery to behind the rear seat in a custom box, there is a huge amount of space in that area above the starter.

                Original battery connectors were actually solid lead crimped one, reckon they probably came with the donor car !

                Battery charged up, started as soon as fuel got to the carb, on POINTS and I took it for a couple fo runs, wow, it idles so much better now and revs higher than the Pertronix would allow.

                Just shows how well the correct and working tradional dizzy functions. Good quality parts are easy to come buy on flat 4s as the spares scene is so big.

                And the engine bay relese cable/lever replaced, well actually it was a beetle reserve fuel cable "re-purposed" for a release and is the same cable I added into DDG 220C for a dash mounted choke control as the cable comes long enough to go from dash on imp to carb at back with cable to spare !

                Timing set when warm and things generally tidy up.

                Brightwork next.

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                / John


                • #9
                  Well nothing much doing Imp Wise so Mr Conroy enticed me out for a run to St Andrews.

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                  Total 122 miles by the time we took nearly every detour possible, did not manage the Anstruther Chippie stop but maybe next time

                  Car running sweet as can be after removing that damned electronic ignition crap. Never missed a beat.

                  Was a great run out, weather murky but dry and not too cold for roof off.

                  Problem is you end up with a "to-do" list as a bonus

                  So needs

                  Carb set back up now for new ignition, tad rich.

                  Needs also the engine shut panel below left hand side head (3/4) as it was coughing a little while running using engine as a break, the carb setup relies on the heated manifold which on an air cooled engine is well, air cooled. I pulled the panel off to release the engine cover as the release cable had seized.

                  Just shows how much keeping the engine bay closed in actually helps. The pops were likely condensed fuel droplets on the intake.

                  Front brakes feel inbalanced. Need to check the calipers.
                  Rear handbrake was a warning on MOT, reckon some bits are seized up so hubs need to come off.
                  Clutch top 2" travel seem to be just cable take-up, need to check
                  Steering feels a little "wooly" so need to see if the steering box has lost oil or if I just need to set the pinion pressure. I fitted a new steering box a few years back so it should be fine.

                  Old cars eh
                  / John


                  • #10
                    Does look good John, I’m quickly learning that old cars don’t like not being used. Less seems to go wrong the more you use the car lol

                    I’m still having stall issues when driving down hill.


                    • #11

                      Yes they tend to complain, a lot mind you the 120 miles was not so easy on me either but great fun. It behaves like an Imp in many ways, the competition boxes I beleive sometimes also use the VW casings. Engine in right place driving right wheels

                      I wont add more on the stalling issue as Mike / Andy seem to be having a lotof thought.

                      Certainly on DSX if i am heading down hill and in gear I can here the pops easy so I know its getting over fuelled and the other issues are actually manifold heat on one side.

                      Out of curiosity did you mount pump front or back ?

                      / John


                      • #12
                        Mounted pump under the tank, also still got the facet one installed at the moment.

                        Plumbed in the heated manifold. Haven't got a heat shield at the moment tho.


                        • #13
                          The MK 1 original heat shields were a complete joke so maybe it was just left off. Ran with and without and no big issues.

                          Up front pump surprises me, seen occcasional issue where there was a small leak sucking air on rear mount pumps (especially standard imp ones) and fuel would drain back


                          / John