Barnaby the Vusky

[Dave Lane]

Looking Fine Dave, I usually flkush it out and replace anyway rather than top up. I have never really trusted modern checmicals.

I change it every 2 years , seems to work

[John A. Ross]

Looking Fine Dave, I usually flkush it out and replace anyway rather than top up. I have never really trusted modern checmicals.

[Dave Lane]

Antifreeze testing.
Singers at 45% so good for - 19˚C
Barnabys at 35% so good for - 11˚C
Il drain a pint oot of Barnaby and add neat antifreeze , should mix up when driving and boost the mix up a bit

[Dave Lane]

The valve seat is what always got me Dave, usually the one used for drain tap at side of block (same valve) drip drip drip .....

Easy to replace with this set up , might try it

[John A. Ross]

The valve seat is what always got me Dave, usually the one used for drain tap at side of block (same valve) drip drip drip .....

[Dave Lane]

Dave

Thinking out the box again and a great solution

I think its a better idea ( subject to more use ) , its more tamper proof plus theres no steel wing doodabs to fall off

[John A. Ross]

Dave

Thinking out the box again and a great solution

[Dave Lane]

Yet more abject bodgery .
This time the three way bleed valve is still playing up on Barnaby .
So its not leaking past the main thread anymore , the valve itself is instead ---- and I aint got another one
Still lateral thing cap on I remembered ive got a few brass adaptor doodahs .
One has the perfect tapered thread that screws into the three way valve doodab and the internal thread on tother end is the exact same as a brake bleed valve .
So this is the result - thus far zero leakage and it does bleed exactly as before .
Time will tell if its a leak free bodge up but thus far its more gooder
PS expansion overflow is in fact a drinks bottle

[John A. Ross]

Got to add some flair Dave, I like the way you left it brass.

The last one I had it was the bottom at the bolt I had to solder back on as it had a crack

[Dave Lane]

Weird how a really simple task can turn into a nightmare .
Three way bleed valve thingy has been leaking for an age on Barnaby . Its been leaking between the valve thread and the three way bit . Anyhoos the valve lever then left the building so thought id just change the valve bit.
Could I get it to shift - hell no
Nae bother - il just change the whole thing .
Therein was tother issue - the nut that holds it to the mounting bracket was rusted solid - cue me over a fair few weeks a bit at a time sawing the nut through - 5 minute stints at a time - eventually today I got it off .
So now ive got a leak free three way valve ( with a home botched lever ) held on the bracket with a brass nut drowned in copper grease .
Time for coffee

[John A. Ross]

Running sweet Dave and glad the box is behaving.

Would not worry about the oil fairies, I think Rootes gave them away free with every car yours are just well behaved !

[Dave Lane]

Seeing as its been in many separate bits lately a 500 mile checkover on Barnaby was required .
Oil use - well a bit but its a 1974 engine rebuilt 15 years ago so il pretend I didnt see it = fixed .
Mixture seems fine although No. 1 runs a bit weaker than No. 2 which runs a tad richer - No. 3 and No. 4 are perfect - Again il pretend I didnt see that for the above reason stated in the oil consumption = fixed .
Coolant use = zero = fixed .
The clunk from the rear has now gone = fixed itself
Starts " right now " hot or cold " so thats still normal .
Need to check the new front wheel bearings for play now its done some miles but other than that its good enough until
sommat else falls off or self destructs
Plug pics are in order :)

[John A. Ross]

Another job I have looming. I never realised they were made outside USA as thats all the ones I have say.

[Dave Lane]

Gonna be changing Barnabys front bearings soon - its on me to do list .
As usual i just build up a spare pair of hubs and just swap em over as ive got ready here .
Anyhoo - two Timken NOS bearing sets - one UK made and one USA made .
Go figure !!
And yes ive changed the outer races as well

[John A. Ross]

The springs are a buffer, but now you have seen how they work Dave its not that hard to make the levers for the lock to match whatever key you have.

If you have some old locks you are looking for the levers with the smallest amount removed from them and save those, you can make new levers to suit most any key then and keep the keys "alike"

I out plastic box over these during surgery as those springs can ping even behind my spex and nearly get the eyeball !

Wish I had done that with liams ignition lock for his Susuki when modding a used one to replace his, the sping you lost will now have joined it in the parallel universe