Barnaby the Vusky

[PMCG]

Old fella is wearing well

Van is good as well.

[Dave Lane]

Not as easy as it looked and TBH it didnt look that easy being black on black - still the new leather cover is on the Vuskys wheel .

And very nice it feels too

[John A. Ross]

That was quick ! nice job as well.

[Dave Lane]

UMM - Possible Problems .

Vuskys oil pressure has seemed a tad high lately especially when cold whereby it hit 70psi - even driving when hot it was above 60psi at 4000RPM and above .

Suspect was either the gauge telling porkies or the relieve valve .

I have a spare 0 to 60PSI full faced gauge here but sadly no light fitting - still thats sortable which i did. ( tother gauge was a 0 to 100 )

Plumbed it in and sure enough it hit 70PSI ( IE. Off the scale ?? ) meaning two gauges saying the same thing - Seeing as the relieve valves set at 60PSI that shouldnt be possible.

Oil filters the older paper type not a spin on which can cause this so i changed the valve for a second hand one i found after cleaning it out .

Not tested it cold yet but pressure has dropped to more normal levels so its all rather promising


Oil pressure warm at tickover



And at 3000RPM - Hits 55PSI above 4000RPM

[John A. Ross]

All the round full face clocks look great.

[Dave Lane]

My OCD kicked in today .
Yonks ago i rewired the brake lights so they are permanent live like a Stiletto .
The OCD bit is the wire colour , on the original set up the brake lights run off the coil so are switched live , any wire thats switched live has a main colour of white and depending on the circuit sometimes theres a stripe added like the red stripe for the solenoid as an example .
Anyway the Stilettos brake light live is plain brown - anything thats plain brown is permanent live so this evening ive changed the Vuskys brake light live to brown.
Fuse set at 7.5A- Draw is just under 4A.
Singers to be done at some point .
And breathe

[John A. Ross]

Nice work Dave, why would you want the brake lights live though ? I guess just because

You thinking changing to led ?

[Dave Lane]

Nice work Dave, why would you want the brake lights live though ? I guess just because

You thinking changing to led ?

It was done as i found it bazaar that Rootes uses the coil for the brake light live except on the Stiletto as it messed up its rev counter , on these it was taken from the solenoid , if its good enough for a stiletto its good enough for me --- plus it got one wire off the coil
High level are now LED , Mulling on the rest

[John A. Ross]

Agree on the wire off the coil, that one bit me a few times with engine cutting out , long story, drove me nuts.

[Dave Lane]

Agree on the wire off the coil, that one bit me a few times with engine cutting out , long story, drove me nuts.

Seems a strange idea , anyway as stuffs been added there was rather a lot on the coil positive , live in , rev counter positive , alternator signal feed and fuel pump , brakes lights was one too many so had to go

[John A. Ross]

Dave

Must have been some breakdown in the brake light switch, put brakes on, cut out, as if it was going to GND, change switch, sorted. Never thought to peel it apart so seeing your autopsy of the switch was cool

[Dave Lane]

Singers half done - well the wires been changed but not connected as yet

[Dave Lane]

Had a play with the " so called " overcooling Vusky yet again .
First off i fitted yet another new stat . Pretested it started opening at 81˚C and was fully open at 90˚C , Whilst changing it I noticed the stat studs were rather fooked so made some new ones and changed them.
New stat in and temperature gauge still in the blue after what could only be described as " A right good thrashing " .
Heater case was 33˚C at this point ( only on so it self bled ) , rad top according to the IR was 70˚C .
So I changed the sender and it now sits at the beginning of the white not in the blue part .
I can only conclude that both the IR and the temp gauge were telling porkies and the engine is in fact running around 80˚C ish .
Heater is blisteringly hot BTW , with it running so called cool id expect the heater to be poor at best.

Heater case temp after the " right good thrashing "

So called running temp according to the IR



Some rather fooked studs , one of which has seen some hacksaw action

[John A. Ross]

I have 3 different models of those IR thermometers and they do tend to read spot on but very surface dependent and in some cases what i see in daylight is different from what I see in garage shade.

Daylight I believe is actually about 50% IR spectrum wise so I see you are doing it in the sun ? could be screwing with the IR reading

Not been able to run up to temp much on the chammy as I fitted two senders, one for the imp gauge which at 60 deg seems to sit just on the white, IR says 52, seperate temp gauge says 60 and imp gauge says just in white.

You not think about putting hex head bolts in rather than studs ? not a mod I would do for sake of it but stainless UNC bolt sounds like a good idea rather than rusty studs.

[Dave Lane]

I have 3 different models of those IR thermometers and they do tend to read spot on but very surface dependent and in some cases what i see in daylight is different from what I see in garage shade.

Daylight I believe is actually about 50% IR spectrum wise so I see you are doing it in the sun ? could be screwing with the IR reading

Not been able to run up to temp much on the chammy as I fitted two senders, one for the imp gauge which at 60 deg seems to sit just on the white, IR says 52, seperate temp gauge says 60 and imp gauge says just in white.

You not think about putting hex head bolts in rather than studs ? not a mod I would do for sake of it but stainless UNC bolt sounds like a good idea rather than rusty studs.

Could well be sunlight screwing it up , as for stainless studs im not a lover of screwing stainless directly in to ally , they hate each other , mild steel if all else fails can be drilled out , stainless is an arse to drill at the best of times , i used a bucket of copper grease so these should be OK