Replacement rear cross member bolt solution - reduced head

[John A. Ross]

I picked my set up from Robin Human as the 4 side bolts on the rear cross member can be a pain in the back side.

Great solution for getting a spanner in there and a bit more correct than my reduced flat socket head screws

From Robins Advert on Facebook

New sets of 4, 5/16" unf thread silver plated nimonic steel rear engine support crossmember side fixing bolts (with a reduced multi hex head - use with a 3/8" 12 point ratchet spanner - allows much easier access).

£6 including UK postage. (Overseas shipping is welcome, please contact me for costs).

Price is correct at date of posting. To contact robin you would need to connect with him on Facebook

[Petowner]

Funny you should put this up today , under rear end today and noticed body shop had only put a few bolts in cross member , but mainly underneath so looking at vertical section, bolt holes were miles out of position , had me wondering if l had wrong cross member and l think l gave other one away.
Thought about it and found an old jack and put it under central section and managed to persuade cross member to move to correct position and got at least two bolts in , now you've pointed out possible problems l'll look out for it and l already know the cure.
Waiting for Robin to get back to me about something else anyway.

THANKS
Bob

[John A. Ross]

Bob

Thats one in place and dont worry, I think like everything else those were made for the car to fit on an individual basis

Plus if the back corners were replaced sometimes the holes are not put back where they should be.

[Petowner]

We were talking about different cross members evidently ! l was talking about cross member that wishbones? bolt to ,you were talking about rear bodywork cross member , l bought some bolts from Robin then went to fit them a couple of weeks ago and found they were 5\16" bolts ,confused as to why Robin had sent me those, then he said ,they're for back of car , , got it wrong again Bob

[moose549]

One thing i regret not doing to the rally car is welding a suitable size guide tube from the outer skin of the car so a long allen key socket could be used to whip these bolts in and out. Even with the standard bolts as i do not have a battery tray and i use a 1/4 drive ratchet and shortened socket it is easy especially as the bolts are cleaned and re coated with anti-seize compound each time they are removed.. My record is 23 mins to have the clutch in my hand. I have a Staubli dry break coupling on the clutch pipe so i do not even need to re-bleed the clutch when re-fitting https://race.parts/Catalogue/Hoses-F...3-3mm-flow-dia .

[John A. Ross]

Mike moose549 you would fire me from your pit crew, takes me a day now to pull an engine even with the transmission and engine dollies I made.

I did see the oprion for the tubes and bolts and I love hex or tork headed bolts but did not fancy the mode on the road car plus I would have been drilling the new wings

Still, I always end up getting the paint, one thing I did always thing about making was a rear cross member "operner" in fact I had one for the car when it was getting worked on, two bits of steel conduit with nuts welded at one end , some adjustable feet off an old machine few turns and the aperture was opened up enough for real panel to drop out easy.

Same ide with some sord of canm in middle, but another one of these daft ideas that I keep having come to mind. This one came back full force as I chipped the nice paint when i changed out the engines